Cheguei no Final

Oi galera!

Yes, this blog is still active, although it has been awhile since the last blog post. Thanks to the Brazil-Miami connection I have a new laptop and can post blogs more frequently (or at least that’s my wishful thinking). Here’s an update that will hopefully cover everything till now. I tried to keep it relatively short for the sake of the very busy New Yorkers who read this (same goes for you too, New Jersey). 

Research:

• I was invited to attend a forum at a state public school in São Leopoldo, a historically German city located about an hour from Porto Alegre. Every year at the forum, there are various activities and lectures for the students pertaining to global affairs, world peace, diversity, and embracing the stranger. I went to a lecture at the forum called Holocaust Never Again! The students performed two acts – one about the Holocaust and the other singing and dancing to Hatikvah - and following that three survivors spoke and shared their stories. What really moved me, in addition to the survivors’ testimony, was watching the Hatikvah act. Having a group of non-Jews, majority of German descent, in suburbia Porto Alegre, at a public school, collectively singing the Israeli national anthem with the Israeli flag in hand, and saluting the survivors was absolutely chilling. The forum was incredibly powerful not just for me, but for the students too. 
• I also observed a class on the Holocaust at a municipal public school (I managed to visit 5 classes in total at 4 municipal schools, which is miraculous considering that class schedules were up in the air due to protests). There were approximately 25 students around 14-15 years old. They were finishing up the film The Boy In The Striped Pajamas and then had a discussion about it. For me, it was incredible to listen to the students’ questions and see their reactions to the film. It was evident to me that they were critically thinking about issues pertaining to racism, discrimination, murder, human rights, etc. even though they come from situations of extreme poverty and violence. 
• I presented my research project and findings to a class at UFRGS. None of the students were aware of the municipal law mandating Holocaust education and they enjoyed learning about my project. The questions I got were great, and some students were really surprised to learn about the neo-Nazi population in Rio Grande do Sul. The presentation went well, and it was an enjoyable experience for me. Presenting is a skill I want to hone in on in general and practice more. 
• It’s official now, I am no longer a Fulbright Study & Research Scholar. My grant ended about a month ago but despite that I have continued all activities and commitments. I’m finishing up the English version of my report regarding my research project and findings. Once it is finished (hopefully soon!) you will all receive a copy of it. The writing, editing, rereading, and reediting takes up a good chunk of the day. It reverts me back to when I was a college student writing my senior thesis. The next and last step will be to translate it to Portuguese and disseminate here. I look forward to hearing responses and feedback from the gaúchos.

News:

• There was a local strike that lasted for about a month. City workers from various sectors were protesting their salaries being given in very small increments rather than paid in full. The public emergency hospital across the street from my apartment was on strike.
• President Temer faced new corruption charges, but just like before he managed to avoid it. https://www.nytimes.com/2017/09/14/world/americas/brazil-temer-corruption-janot.html
• A former FIFA official from Brazil has been charged with corruption, http://edition.cnn.com/2017/12/22/sport/soccer-corruption-convictions/index.html

Porto Alegre news and events:

• I attended a Sukkot lunch organized by WIZO. The WIZO young professional group has adopted me and incorporated me into their group. 

• I also attended a Hanukkah menorah lighting at a nearby shopping mall. It was nice, and was pretty much the same thing that is done in the U.S. It was the same night that Grêmio won the championship so people were really happy and pumped up.
• Grêmio, a local soccer team from Porto Alegre, won the South American Cup, the most important soccer tournament in South America. Below please find a picture of Avenida Goethe, a main avenue in Porto Alegre, on game night. 
• Porto Alegre recently hosted its annual book fair, which is one of the largest and most important in Latin America. Books from all over the world in Portuguese, Spanish, English, French, Italian, German, and probably a handful of other languages too, were present and for sale.
• Me and another Fulbrighter gave a presentation to ACCESS, an English language program supported by the U.S. Consulate.  We spoke about similarities and differences in history and culture between the U.S. and Brazil and spoke about hardships in the U.S. that are not so well known in Brazil such as the cost of healthcare, education, the threat of terrorism, and addressed myths and facts pertaining to the U.S. and U.S. citizens. The students were particularly interested in learning about the multitude of professional sports in the U.S. (in Brazil soccer is the only option) and the differences between K-12 education in Brazil and the U.S. 

Travels:

I’ve taken a few local trips around Rio Grande do Sul. Here’s a brief description of each one. 

1. Pelotas – It’s one of the largest cities in Rio Grande do Sul and is also very historical. It’s famous for its desserts so that was definitely one of my motivations in going there.
2. Cassino – The largest beach in the world. Enough said.
3. Waterfalls and other beautiful nature  in Rolante, Riozinho, Santa Maria do Herval, and Picada Verão.

Buenos Aires - I was in Buenos Aires for about 4 days in November. I went only to visit friends and did very little sightseeing. It was nice to see them and as always, I enjoyed the many variations of dulce de leche ice cream

Minas Gerais - I visited various places within the state of Minas Gerias, a state west of Rio de Janeiro. I spent a few days in Belo Horizonte, Ouro Preto, and visited the amazing Inhotim museum. A brief description of each destination:

1. Belo Horizonte – Mina’s capital , also known as BH (pronounced as “beh ah-gah”) and also one of the biggest cities in Brazil. It’s known for its many museums and for having the best food in Brazil. It was a nice city but I didn’t find it particularly interesting
2. Ouro Preto – A historic city that is also Brazil’s first UNESCO World Heritage site. It is glorious and breathtaking! The architecture is stunning and all the streets are made of cobblestones. It’s also a great workout touring the city, being that all the streets have an extreme incline.
3. Inhotim– The largest outdoor museum in the world located two hours from Belo Horizonte. It is spectacular and one of my favorite museums I have ever been to (I love the Israel museum and the Oscar Neimeyer Museum in Curitiba). The grounds are comprised of several acres and houses several contemporary art galleries, botanical gardens, and hiking trails. 

Rio de Janeiro – My Brazilian friends are so wise. A second trip to Rio was totally necessary. This time around I saw new museums, toured the Tijuca forest, saw the vista chinesa, and had more beach time (a must for me). 

Florianopolis – I went back to Florianopolis for two days but explored a different part of the island this time around. I was at Canasvieiras beach in the north. Florianopolis is a 6 hour bus ride from Porto Alegre and is a very easy trip. 

Northeast – Tomorrow I leave for the northeast of Brazil where I will be traveling for about a month. My first stop is Fortaleza followed by Jericoacoara. My last point on the trip will be Maceio.

Discoveries:

Rodizio – Brazil, at least Porto Alegre, is known for its rodizio – all you can eat pizza. Flavors include brie and apple, orange sauce with duck (I did not try that one), and California pizza (to be honest I am not sure what it had, and I did not try it). There are additional flavors for dessert such as chocolate and coconut, condensed milk and strawberries, cheese and guava, among many others. It was a wonderful experience and I was full for days. 

Jabuticaba – a delicious fruit that is both sweet and sour. The texture is like eating a hard peach.  

Post-Brazil:

I am planning for life after Brazil, which is sad but obviously must be done. I'll keep you posted as things develop. 

Abs,
Ariana

 

Cassino beach, Rio Grande do Sul

Brochure advertising the Forum

Avenida Goethe in Porto Alegre during the South American Cup

Inhotim

Jabuticaba fruit

Ouro Preto

Santa Maria do Herval, Rio Grande do Sul

Vista Chinesa, Rio de Janeiro

A Cidade Maravilhosa e Mais

Oi pessoal!

Tudo bem? Unfortunately my 7-year-old Macbook Pro decided to rest in peace here in Brazil. Thankfully my awesome roommate and good friend Ana is letting me use her computer. 

It is still absolutely incredible being here. I cannot believe that the halfway point has already passed! I really don't like how time is slipping away.

Here's a summary of what's been going on. In no particular order...

Travels - 

A cidade maravilhosa: There's a reason why Rio de Janeiro is called a cidade maravilhosa, the marvelous city. That's because it truly is! I was in Rio for a few days and it is even more beautiful and cooler in real life than it is portrayed on TV. It is the Miami of Brazil where life revolves around the beach and the city is hustling and bustling with energy. It is impossible to capture and explain Rio's coolness in words or photos. In between touring  a cidade maravilhosa, I also did a few interviews there  being that Rio passed a similar municipal law a year after Porto Alegre. Oddly enough, one of the people that I interviewed,  a professor of Holocaust studies, didn't know that the law existed! I was told that if I had not mentioned the law, the professor never would have known about it! Apparently the law got a lot less publicity in Rio compared to Porto Alegre and has not been as widely implemented. A few highlights from a cidade maravilhosa:

1. Views from Sugarloaf Mountain and Christ the Redeemer

2. Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon beaches. Just like Venice Beach, there is a lot of sand at the beaches making it a place that everyone -  families, those that want to play volleyball and soccer, surfers, paddle boarders, swimmers, people selling caipirinhas and cheese (I thought it was odd to have hot cheese as a beach snack but to each their own), and tanners (me) - can enjoy.

3. Seeing bossa nova music live at a nearby cafe. Particularly in the Lapa neighborhood, people spill out onto the street dancing bossa nova and samba.

4. People watching on Rio's many beaches. There are many city beaches in Rio so there is quite a lot of ground to cover.

5. Cariocas , people from the city of Rio de Janeiro, being so nice and friendly. I met a Carioca when I was in Curitiba. Despite barely knowing her, she showed me around Rio, introduced me to her friends, and invited me to stay with her. 

I did some traveling too to other incredible destinations within the state of Rio de Janeiro. A brief description de cada um:

Paraty - A lovely, rustic, laid back beach town in the south of the state of Rio de Janeiro. It is also famous for making excellent cachaça and boy is it good!

Ilha Grande - An island located between Paraty and Rio de Janeiro. No cars are allowed on the island in order to not disrupt the peaceful atmosphere. Popular activities are hiking and island hopping.

Búzios - A chic beach town located about 3 hours from Rio. It is a popular destination for Argentines to vacation and live.There, I was able to travel back in time and eat some empanadas and speak in Spanish with citizens from my second home. It was very reassuring that I can still speak excellent Argentine Spanish (although my accent has gotten a lot worse) and that it hasn't turned into portunhol. 

Cabo Frio -Wow! Bah! Meu deus! One of the most beautiful beaches I have seen in Brazil! The water was so clear and blue just like the Caribbean. And that sand, unbelievable! It was so soft and white that you could have substituted it for all purpose flour and wouldn't know the difference.

Bottom line - Rio de Janeiro and surrounding areas are amazing. I realize that Rio gets a bad rep due to violence and the visibly extreme inequality. To combat that, there are many police  throughout the city and I felt completely safe there. If you are going to be a worry wart and constantly think about the what if, then you will miss out on some amazing experiences. I highly recommend a trip to Rio and look forward to going back there in November (I have very wise Brazilian friends who told me that one trip to Rio is not sufficient).

Serra Gaúcha:

I went on a trip organized by the department for international students at UFRGS to the countryside, a Serra Gaúcha, in Rio Grande do Sul. We visited a cachaça factory in Ivoti (and had a cachaça tasting at 9:30am...), a chocolate factory in Gramado, a waterfall in Canela, among other things. It was nice to meet the group although I was significantly older than them (they are all blossoming 20 somethings and I am 30).

Brasília:

I had my Fulbright midyear seminar in Brasília, Brazil's capital. Brasília is an interesting yet strange city and is not a popular tourist destination for Brazilians. The city was created in the 1960s smack in the middle of Brazil. Oscar Niemeyer was the architect so although beautiful, there is not much diversity among the city's architecture. The city is very spaced out so having access to a car is definitely a necessity. Therefore, there are not many people on the streets and the city is not very walkable. The city didn't appear to have much natural beauty, but then again when I was there it hadn't rained in 120 days. I'm really glad I was able to see Brasília.

The Fulbright seminar was nice and it was great to see everyone. We each gave 15 minute presentations about our research followed by a Q&A and swapped stories about our experiences in Brazil. I was asked a few questions pertaining to my research and felt confident answering them. It was then that I realized that perhaps I have become somewhat of an expert on this issue. I have been researching, studying, observing, and making school visits pertaining to this legislation and education that possibly nobody has ever done. 

Next up for travels:

Rio round 2 in November - I'll be visiting places that I didn't get to see previously and hopefully get one last tan in on Copacabana, Ipanema, and Leblon beaches. 

Buenos Aires - I am making a quick trip to BA also in November to visit friends there. I was hoping that my friends would come here but unfortunately that is not the case. If I go back to the U.S. without seeing them I know I will regret it. I'm excited to go but don't feel the need to do much exploring (although don't get me wrong, Buenos Aires is an incredible city).

I will be going to Minas Gerais for a week in December. There, I will be visiting some historic cities there that are supposed to be very charming. Plus, supposedly Minas Gerais has the best food in Brazil and I plan on thoroughly investigating that :-)

I would love to take some day trips to see more of Rio Grande do Sul. That takes no effort and planning so I will probably just travel on a whim.

From December 24 - January 30 I'll be in the North East of Brazil visiting various historical sights and beach hopping. The goal is to start in Jericoacoara and end in Maceio. 

Looks like I will probably have to make a quick trip to São Paulo for two days or so in the beginning of February. I hope I won't have to go but should find out in early December. On the 10th I am scheduled to fly back to Miami from Porto Alegre :-(

Community Activities - 

The Fools: I was an English instructor at The Fools English immersion program located about an hour from Porto Alegre. I spent two days there and conducted two classes. The first class was about US culture where I debunked stereotypes and gave examples about the realities and challenges of living in the US. I think the class was a success and I was asked several questions. The second class that I did was quite a different experience. I led a cooking class for making snickerdoodle cookies and they did not come out well at all! The first batch came out really gooey (I think we put in too much butter) and the second batch was burned. My stomach hurt from laughing so much and it just underlined how I don't belong in the kitchen.

Mega Challah Bake: I participated in the annual Mega Challah Bake in Porto Alegre. Over 1000 women and daughters came! Never had I seen so many Jews in the same room in Porto Alegre. The event was great and really quite chic (I didn't get the memo about the chiqueness and was well underdressed). Again, just like at The Fools, when I went home to bake the challahs I had problems and they did not turn out well. 

Farroupilha week: Every September, Rio Grande do Sul celebrates the Farroupilha war. In the early 1800s, Rio Grande do Sul went to war with Brazil to try and become its own country. They lost, and the month of September is filled with celebrations such as traditional dances and music, churrasco, parades, etc. This is probably the most celebrated event here in Rio Grande do Sul.

Jewish Holidays: I had an informal Rosh Hashana dinner with WIZO here in Porto Alegre. I also got a few invitations for Sukkot and am looking forward to that. 

Research - 

Interviews and school visits are really winding down. I had my last class visit today and might interview one other person. I've been working on a document and although it's not academic, my goal is to create a piece that I can share with people here and in the U.S. about the who, what, where, why, when, and how regarding my research project. I have been working on a draft and will show it to a professor next week. I'm sure many, many changes will have to be made. 

Current Events -

Protest: There was a day long protest at UFRGS (and probably in other cities too) regarding President Temer's reforms. The School of Education at UFRGS was closed for the day and therefore my class was canceled. Scroll down to see the flyer from the protest.

A Former Minister was arrested after boatloads of cash were found in an apartment in Salvador, Bahia. 

Temer's reforms have officially been implemented.

The former Governor of Rio de Janeiro has been sentenced to prison for corruption. 

There will probably be another protest in Rio Grande do Sul (at least in Porto Alegre) due to city and state workers' salaries being rationed and given in small increments. This change, which has been going on for some time now but has become more widespread, is a result of the state's economic crisis. 

That's all I have for now and I think this post is long enough. I am always very cautious and aware that I have several New Yorkers in this audience who have absolutely no time (same goes for you too, New Jersey).

Abraços e beijinhos do Brasil!

Me on Copacabana Beach in Rio de Janeiro. Her name was Lola, she was a showgirl....

Catedral. One of Niemeyer's works in Brasilia

 Inside the Catedral

l View of Rio de Janeiro from Christ the Redeemer

Annual Mega Challah Bake in Porto Alegre

 Cabo Frio, Rio de Janeiro

 A real Gaúcho in Porto Alegre making churrasco during Farroupilha month in September

Canela, Rio Grande do Sul

The group of international students entering Gramado, Rio Grande do Sul

The flyer I was given at the protest in Porto Alegre

 Leblon, Rio de Janeiro

6 Months and One Day

Olá pessoal!

Happy Father’s Day! Brazilians celebrate in August.

I’ve been wanting to squeeze in another blog post for some time and for whatever reason now, at 1am, I have vontade to do so. Today marks 6 months and one day since I arrived in Brazil and August 17^th will be exactly 6 months since I first stepped foot in Porto Alegre. It seems like just yesterday I was taking the SuperShuttle from absolutely beautiful, awesome, stunning Miami Beach and heading to the airport to catch a flight to São Paulo for the Fulbright orientation!

And without further ado here are the latest notícias.

Research:

*School visits -

Now I’m really starting to wrap things up. I’m visiting one more school and after that I am done with interviews. I only anticipate more school visits if I am able to visit a class. As you know from previous blog posts, trying to set up a time to observe a class has been quite the challenge! I’ve started to look over and review all of the interviews that I’ve done to find commonalities, differences, make suggestions, etc. and hopefully creating some sort of cohesive and articulate piece documenting my research findings. Going through information, organizing it, and attempting to write it down has been quite tedious; I have really forgotten what it’s like to be a “student” again!

*Interviews -

I have a few more interviews lined up with various minority groups. I’m curious to see what they think about the municipal law, planning, and execution of the education both from the Municipality of Education and from the teachers themselves.

*I met with the city councilman who authored the municipal law and various security personnel from the private and public sectors. I don’t know if it’s because I’m from the U.S. or that I’m here with Fulbright, but I am so surprised how these very, very, busy and important people made time to meet with me. Not only that, but our meetings went well over an hour, they gave me their private contact information, and encouraged me to reach out again if I have more questions. I can’t publicize their names and the content of our discussions, but the meetings with the security personnel were particularly eye opening and interesting.

*Presentations –

I’ll give a 15-minute presentation on my research at the Fulbright seminar in Brasília which will take place at the end of September. Other groups have expressed interest in me presenting my work as well. Following the Fulbright seminar, I think I’ll send them my presentation so they can get an idea of what it entails and then move forward from there.

National News:

The plot thickens!

* Former President Lula is sentenced to jail for 9 years and 6 months https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2017-07-12/brazil-s-lula-sentenced-to-prison-on-corruption-charges. This is a huge deal because it was thought that Lula would be a candidate for presidential elections in 2018.

*Temer survives corruption vote - http://www.bbc.com/news/world-latin-america-40809826. Many people went to the streets following the vote. Rumor has it that Temer may have bought votes.

*Petrobras, Brazil’s petroleum corporation, has raised gas and diesel prices. This has sparked outrage and protests throughout the country. https://oglobo.globo.com/economia/petrobras-aumenta-em-69-preco-do-gas-de-cozinha-1-21670005

Travels:

The month of July is winter vacation in Brazil, which means extra high premium prices for traveling. Naturally, I decided to stay local and continue to explore my beautiful city. I did go on a mini-trip for four days though…

I went on a young professionals trip to Espirito Santo to partake in a community service project. We were a group of 16 Brazilians from all over the country – Porto Alegre, São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, Belo Horizonte, Brasília, and Espirito Santo. We worked in an indigenous village called Areal, close to the city of Regência, and built a soccer field for the kids, learned about their community, and its realities and challenges. Rio Doce has been decimated by environmental destruction. You can read about what happened here, https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/2016/oct/15/samarco-dam-collapse-brazil-worst-environmental-disaster-bhp-billiton-vale-mining. Many communities within Espirito Santo and Minas Gerias were, and still are, extremely dependent on Rio Doce. Their economies and quality of life have changed dramatically for the worst. Even before the disaster, many of these communities, including Areal, had very little economic means and were very vulnerable.

Discoveries:

*I knew that the Nazis were all over the world, but I guess now I really understand that they were in fact everywhere. Through my research and meetings, I learned that Nazi spies were active throughout the Americas – the US, Panama, Mexico, Brazil, etc. – sending messages to Berlin regarding the movement of ships, planes, weapons, and economic mobilization occurring primarily in the US and England as well as attitudes and behaviors towards the Germans and WWII. In Porto Alegre, there was a German House that served to disseminate Nazi ideology through cultural, educational, youth, and social events.

*Ariana is a common name that neo-Nazis in Brazil use to name their daughters. It means Arian race.

*The Biannual Mercosul cultural and artistic event and the B’nai B’rith day-long seminar on Holocaust education were supposed to take place in Porto Alegre this year. Unfortunately, due to the political and economic crisis they have been postponed to next year.

*I am constantly being asked what I think about President Donald Trump. When I was first asked about Trump (pronounced in Brazilian Portuguese as “Trump-eee") I first thought they asked me what I think about trampolines. When I responded that they were “fun and I enjoy jumping on them” I got many weird looks and reactions. I then learned that “Trump-eee” = Trump

It’s now almost 2am, an appropriate time to go to bed I think. I’ll probably post another blog in September following my research trip to the Cidade Maravilhosa :-)

Abraços, beijos, e boa noite!

-Ariana

Rio Doce, Espirito Santo

Soccer field that we built. Areal, Espirito Santo

Centro Histórico, Porto Alegre

Jardim Botânico - Botanical Gardens, Porto Alegre

Conhecendo Mais do Sul - Seeing More of the South

Olá pessoal! Tudo bem? Tudo joia aqui. Porto Alegre is tri fantastic and I love being a gaúcha! I apologize for the tri late blog post. As usual I’ve been running all over town and am just now starting to feel better after shaking off a mini cold. So what have I been up to since we last left off?

Research:

More school visits -

I’ve visited many, many schools since the last blog post. I won’t go into detail about their realities and challenges because you probably have gotten the idea by now from previous blog posts. I will note some interesting observations not necessarily research related, but still worth mentioning I think.

1. The food served at municipal schools is very good, far superior to school food in the U.S. (I’m referring to public schools). The Municipality of Education of Porto Alegre provides a nutritionist to oversee the food being made at the schools. The food is a healthy home cooked meal with beans, rice, meats, and fresh fruits and vegetables

2. While observing a history class, left wing and right wing were defined as:

Left-wing - more radical, wants changes that prioritize society, defends socialism and communism (mais radical, quer mudanças que priorizem a sociedade, defendem o socialismo e o comunismo)

Right-wing - more conservative, prefers to maintain things as they are, prioritizes economic development and defends capitalism (mais conservadora, preferem manter as coisas como elas são, prioriza o desenvolvimento economico e defende o capitalismo)

3. Typically, a classroom has a maximum of 30 desks. The classes that I visited had around 15 students (granted I have no idea if some students were absent or not). Many of my classes in public high school had 40+ students.

Meeting with SMED –

I had a meeting with the Municipal Secretary of Education of Porto Alegre (SMED) to discuss my research project and strategize on which schools to visit. They were very interested in my project and want me to make a presentation for them at the end of the year! They were also so kind to give me a list of schools to contact and sent a letter on my behalf to the schools encouraging them to meet with me.

Visiting the Holocaust Museum in Curitiba –

I took a quick 3-day research trip to Curitiba, the capital of Paraná. I visited the Holocaust museum, spoke with the museum’s director, and did some city touring on the side. The museum is very small but packed with information (it’s the only Holocaust museum in Brazil). Its main message is that the Holocaust is a terrible genocide, it has affected all of humanity and not just the Jews, and prejudice, discrimination, and racism can lead to no good. The Museum also focuses on terrorist attacks, dictatorships (especially those in Latin America), and other genocides that have occurred around the globe. On a weekly basis, the museum receives hundreds of visitors, and group visits must be scheduled months in advance. Coincidentally, the day I was at the museum a school from Santa Catarina was there too. I tagged along and toured the museum with them. Upon arrival at the museum, we were all given a passport-like document of someone who was in the Holocaust. The passport provides a snapshot of that person’s life before, during and after the Holocaust. Rather than the tour being like a history class, the museum guide made it very personal, sharing stories and anecdotes from those that survived and perished. She also mentioned her story, having grandparents that were Holocaust survivors and resettled in Belo Horizonte, the capital of Minas Gerais. The students asked very appropriate questions and were infatuated by all the stories.

It was nice to do some sightseeing in Curitiba too. The city is regarded as having the highest standard of living in Brazil and is known as being very well planned, organized, clean, and relatively safe with excellent public transportation. I visited the Oscar Niemeyer Museum and it’s absolutely fantastic! I usually have little patience for museums (I’m in and out in 20 minutes) but I stayed there for an hour and a half! The architecture was stunning and the variety of art exhibitions was incredible (including art taken from politicians as result of the Lava Jato investigation)! The only other art museum that I’ve ever spent so much time in is The Israel Museum. I then spent an afternoon on the Serra Verde Express Train. This is a touristy train that starts in Curitiba and goes to small towns in the interior of the country, about a 3-hour ride. For those of you scared of heights, this is not the activity for you. The train tracks are high up, gripping the side of a mountain and often ride over the treetops. The views were really spectacular!

Next up for research -

1. I think that my school visits are coming to an end. I have reached a point that now the answers, situations, and realities of the schools have become repetitive.

2. I need to speak with individuals and organizations from minority communities to get their perspectives and opinions on the law. So far I have spoken with two people and certainly there is more work to be done!

3. I’ve been trying to observe a class in action but it’s more difficult than it sounds! Lessons plans and curriculums are always changing, the nation-wide strikes have altered school schedules, and quite frankly, and completely understandably, I am not the teachers’ priority and therefore am rarely informed when they will be teaching about WWII and the Holocaust.

4. I still have a papelada of documents that I need to read. There are national as well as state and city curriculum standards that I need to go through. Also, currently there have been many new reforms here in Porto Alegre involving municipal schools. I’ve heard a lot about them but have yet to read concrete material on what they entail.

           

News in Brazil:

1. The U.S. Consulate in Porto Alegre is officially open for business!

2. There was another nation-wide strike on June 30th to protest President Temer’s reforms. You can read more about it here, https://www.reuters.com/article/us-brazil-politics-protests-idUSKBN19L270

3. President Temer has been charged with corruption and obstruction of justice. This is the first time an acting president has faced such charges in Brazil. https://www.theguardian.com/world/2017/jun/27/brazils-president-michel-temer-charged-over-alleged-corruption

 4. We are now in the heart of winter here in Brazil. I didn’t know what to expect being that I heard that winter in Porto Alegre is: very cold like Siberia, quite mild like Orlando, rains a lot, is very windy, etc. There was one week where it was pouring rain everyday, so much so that the city was completely flooded (but I’ve seen worse. There was a winter in Buenos Aires where I was walking through water well above my hips and there was so much flooding that parked cars on the street were floating). However, other than that everyday has been a comfortably sunny 70-75 degrees. People, and I admit that I am included in this, still go outside in their fleeces, boots, and scarves. Conclusion: winter in Porto Alegre is really quite nice and certainly much better than Siberia and NYC.

Travels:

Besides Curitiba I haven’t been doing much traveling. I took two day trips to the mountains located about 2 hours from Porto Alegre.

1. Bento Gonçalvez, the Napa Valley of Brazil - I visited a few vineyards, tasted some wines, cheeses, and dulce de leche.  

2. Gramado, the Switzerland of Brazil – The architecture is very German influenced. Gramado is known for great chocolate, café colonial (over the top Brazilian brunch), a chique film festival, and outdoor activities. Because it is located in the mountains, Gramado is a popular winter destination and has a very cold climate. It is common for Brazilians to go there and take a picture next to a thermometer to show just how cold and exotic it is there.

Discoveries:

1. Due to violence in Brazil, apparently there is a law (I think it’s federal) stating that at night it’s legal to drive through red lights if safety is an issue. While I do agree that safety at nighttime can be sketchy, I think that many drivers abuse this law for their own personal benefit…

2. Brazilians love to brazilianize English words and put their own spin on the pronunciation. For example:

Web – pronounced as “webee”

Powerpoint – “powerpointchee”

Online – “onlinee”

Cupcake – “coopeecakee”

Facebook – “Faceebookee”

3. Valentines Day in Brazil is celebrated on June 12. I have no idea why. It is also only celebrated amongst couples.

4. Phone service providers (at least this is the case with Claro) can only service your phone locally. For example, let’s say that you have an 858 area code phone number (San Diego, CA) with Verizon. You go on vacation in Miami, FL, which is a 305 area code, and your phone stops working. Naturally, you go to the local Verizon store in Miami to get your phone serviced. However, even though it is the same phone company nothing can be done. Verizon Miami cannot access any accounts outside of its location and has no authority and jurisdiction on other area codes.

Até mais!

Abraços,

Ariana

Centro Histórico, Curitiba

Oscar Niemeyer Museum, Curitiba

Café colonial in Gramado. Did I mention that were were just 3 people?!

Gramado, Rio Grando do Sul

Serra Verde Express Train, Curitiba

Museu do Holocausto, Curitiba

Fazer 30 Anos! - Turning 30! :-0

Olá pessoal!

Some of you have expressed your lack of enthusiasm in not hearing from me recently. Rather than wait for me to post a new blog every now and then, I would encourage you to download and use WhatsApp, a FREE app that allows you to call, text, send photos, and FaceTime with anyone in the world for FREE. This is the best way to be in contact with me on a regular basis. If I don’t answer right away it’s most likely because 1) I’m on the street and can’t answer the phone, 2) I’m without an internet connection, 3) I’m in class, 4) I’m in a meeting and/or interviewing someone. You can read more about the app and how to download it by clicking on this link, https://www.whatsapp.com/. Once the app is downloaded, you should see in your phone under my contact information that I have the app (it’s connected to my phone number) and therefore can communicate with me easily. If you encounter any sort of problem please let me know.

Me in Morro de São Paulo, Gamboa Beach, Bahia on my birthday

Celebrating Israel at the Porto Alegre Chamber of City Councilmen

At the Fortaleza Canyon in Rio Grande do Sul

Fun in the sun in Torres, Rio Grande do Sul.

This is what the neighborhood looks like of the school that I went to visit. There's the main road that the school and principal businesses are located on and as you work your way up away from the road the neighborhood drastically changes. Please note that this is not the actual neighborhood that I went to visit (I didn't feel comfortable taking a picture) but it looks very similar.

Ubatuba, São Paulo

And now to the nitty gritty, the reason as to why you are reading this blog…

It’s been a busy and somewhat overwhelming month. I now feel that I have reached a point where I am overloaded with information, have various texts to read and digest, have new contacts to meet with, more follow-up to conduct from previous meetings, and then some. This is not at all a complaint and I’m thrilled that my project is taking off!

Research:

1. Visiting another school –

       I went to another municipal school and spoke with the principal and a teacher. Once again, the school was not exactly in the best neighborhood (to put it lightly). The visit was very interesting, informative, and frank. When I asked the principal about the realities of the neighborhood and how they affect the school, his response was very calm and relaxed. He said that despite the poverty and activity of drug gangs, the school was relatively safe. After all, it’s not like the school is in the line of fire and gun shots are no longer heard (apparently this was not the case 10 years ago at the school). Some interesting comments and observations from the meeting:

• The biggest challenge for teachers in teaching the Holocaust is having the students understand it. This is a very distant topic for them, it happened a while ago, and they don’t know what a Jew is or anything about Judaism.  Despite this, the Holocaust is being taught at the school, but the students identify more with Afro-Brazilian studies, which is also mandated by municipal law.
• Last year at the school there was a serious problem with bullying and related violence. To combat this, a program consisting of dialogue and various activities pertaining to racism, segregation, discrimination, etc. were implemented. Materials such as the film “Freedom Writers” and the Anne Frank House (virtual museum) were used. The program was a success that as a result some of the students voluntarily read The Diary of Anne Frank.

           

2. Interviewing victims of Neo-Nazi attack –

     I interviewed a few victims that were attacked by neo-Nazis in Porto Alegre. I don’t feel comfortable publishing their intimate details on the internet but I will say that the interviews were incredibly powerful, terrifying, yet uplifting. Despite suffering from severe mental and physical injuries, they are all living normal and healthy lives. They have a positive outlook on life and on humanity, and go out with friends, have careers (in the legal, cultural, and engineering fields), relationships, etc.

            They all agreed that the municipal law mandating Holocaust education was very necessary in Porto Alegre due to racism and discrimination against various groups. When asked what they would include in the education, one of the victims recommended incorporating music. There are many popular punk bands such as NOFX (which coincidentally is a Jewish band – check out the song “We’re the Brews”) that address discrimination, and Brazilian punk bands are openly against neo-Nazis (apparently they are extreme enemies).

3. Survivor Talk –

            I traveled with three survivors (one of whom was not Jewish) to a public state school in Caxias do Sul, a city founded by Italian immigrants, located about two hours from Porto Alegre. The three survivors spoke about life before, during, and after the Holocaust to a group of approximately 70 students. One of the survivors, from Berlin, was in three concentration camps. At Auschwitz, his job was to collect the clothing of those that were sent to the gas chambers. He considers himself lucky because he secretly used that clothing under his uniform to keep warm which helped him survive. When they were finished speaking, they got a standing ovation from the students followed by many hugs, kisses, photos, and questions. I found it very interesting to see how engaged these students were. They seemed to really understand the difficulties that the survivors went through, and that the Holocaust has affected all of humanity and not just the Jews.

4. Pan American School –

            I spoke with a history teacher at the Pan American School, an international English-language school in Porto Alegre. This teacher previously taught at a municipal school as well as a Lutheran and Catholic school. It was interesting to hear about his different teaching styles and focuses at each school. He seemed very interested in my project and mentioned the idea of me possibly presenting my project at Pan American towards the end of the school year. I really hope that works out!

5. Next up for research –

• I have many documents and books to read that will keep me very busy. Everything is in Portuguese so it will take that much longer to get through.
• In June I’ll be visiting the Holocaust Museum in Curitiba and will meet with the museum’s director
• Next week I’m meeting with the city councilman who authored the municipal law. I will also be visiting another municipal school and meeting with various teachers. Although it is not a municipal school, I’ll be visiting a state school in São Leopoldo, a city located about an hour from Porto Alegre that was established by German immigrants.

Community-Wide Events:

Fulbright strongly encourages interaction and engagement with the local community. I frequently attend events from various groups, on various topics, with a diverse audience. I enjoy the many cultural and educational events that Porto Alegre offers, and meeting people from throughout Brazil and the Americas (I have met some Europeans and Middle Easterners too) is awesome! Here’s a brief summary of a few specific activities I’ve been to,

• Yom Hashoah – I attended an event at the local federation here (Federação Israelita do Rio Grande do Sul) for Holocaust Remembrance Day (Yom Hashoah)
• There was a community-wide event for Yom Ha’atzmaut (Israel’s Independence Day). Sadly the falafel wasn’t very good.
• The Porto Alegre Chamber of City Councilmen had a special session commemorating Israel
•  I gave a presentation about California to UFRGS students studying English. It was really fun for me to speak about and show off my beautiful home state. Without question, La Jolla Shores completely dominates The Hamptons. Sorry, but not sorry, New Yorkers. That includes you too, New Jersey.

Current Events:

There has been a lot of political action in Brazil since I have been here. It seems like everyday someone else is being exposed for corruption in Lava Jato. A brief summary of what has been going on in Latin America’s largest country,

•  Escola Sem Partido – This is a law being promoted on a national level. In a nutshell, its objective is to make it legally binding for educators to expose all viewpoints on academic topics to students rather than share just their own opinions and perspectives (which tend to be left-wing leaning). This law is highly controversial here in Porto Alegre, and many see it as an attempt to silence and go back in history to the dictatorship days. As of this writing the law has not been passed and I don’t believe there is a fixed date to vote on it. You can read more about the law here in Portuguese, http://www.programaescolasempartido.org/
• There was a massive nation-wide strike that occurred at the end of April to protest reforms being pushed by the Temer administration. Here’s an article from the BBC about the strike (“greve” in Portuguese) http://www.bbc.com/news/world-latin-america-39744030 and here’s a video of the strike in Porto Alegre, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wtqQjzTMloc. That day, I woke up to the sounds and sirens of protesters marching outside. Public transportation, businesses, schools, universities, etc. were completely shut down. The city was a ghost town and other than the protestors few people left their homes and went outside.
• Charges were made against President Temer for corruption. You can read about the incident here from The Guardian, https://www.theguardian.com/world/2017/may/19/brazil-president-michel-temer-corruption-conspiracy-accusation. President Temer says that these recordings were edited and tampered with. The OAB (Ordem dos Advogados do Brasil – The Order of Attorneys of Brazil, aka the Brazilian Bar Association) has called for Temer’s impeachment.

Travels:

I’ve done some traveling within Rio Grande do Sul and in other parts of Brazil.

1. Within Rio Grande do Sul –

• Cambará do Sul, Cânion Fortaleza – I took a day trip to see the Fortaleza Canyon, located about 2.5 hours from Porto Alegre. It was a great day filled with lots of hiking, crossing streams, walking up hills, taking lots of pictures, and making new friends. I was told that the Fortaleza Canyon is comparable to the Grand Canyon.
• Torres – A week or so after going to Cambará do Sul, I traveled with a group of Fulbrighters to the annual hot air balloon festival in Torres. Torres is a delightful beach town located in the northern region of Rio Grande do Sul close to the border with Santa Catarina. In addition to going to the festival, we toured the town and had some fun in the sun on the beach.

2. Ubatuba, São Paulo –

     I went on an organized young professional trip to Ubatuba, a beach town located in the state of São Paulo. The majority of the participants were from Rio de Janeiro or the city of São Paulo, but some were from Porto Alegre, Brasilia, Minas Gerais, Recife, Santa Catarina, and elsewhere. We stayed at an eco resort, just a few steps away from the beach. The vegetation there was very rich and really reminded me of Costa Rica. I spent some quality time on the beach (my favorite thing to do) and enjoyed meeting the whole group.

3. Bahia - 

     To celebrate rather than cry over turning 30, I went to Salvador and Morro de São Paulo for my birthday. I spent two days in Salvador, the capital of Bahia, and stayed with a Fulbrighter who was so kind to show me around. There, I visited Jorge Amado’s house, one of Brazil’s most beloved writers. I also spent some time walking around the Pelourinho neighborhood, marveling at the beautiful city views and architecture. Salvador has a strong culture and influence from Africa, which is very different from Rio Grande do Sul, marked by colonization from Germany and Italy. I tried acarajé, a salty donut-like pita pocket sandwich stuffed with seafood, some sort of vegetable puree, and spices (mine was vegetarian). Luckily I did not get sick from the palm oil, which is very common among tourists! Following Salvador, I took a two hour boat ride to the island of Morro de São Paulo, located about 60 kilometers south of Salvador. It’s quite small, has several beaches, is very safe, and is extremely popular among Argentines and Israelis. Spanish and Hebrew are by far the dominant languages on the island and Brazilians there are few and far between. This provided an excellent opportunity for me to practice my Spanish, and thank god I still remember it and speak it very well! I really enjoyed lounging around the beach, being a porteña again, walking around the island, and swimming in the ocean. It was a great way to start the new decade!

Discoveries:

1. Pinhão – A delicious nut found in the south of Brazil that is usually eaten in the winter months in Porto Alegre. Think of it like the chestnut http://flavorsofbrazil.blogspot.com.br/2010/07/pinhao-brazils-pine-nut-on-steroids.html

2. Cupuaçu – A very sweet, vanilla-flavored fruit found in the north of Brazil. It is commonly used in ice cream, various desserts, and is transformed into an açaí like frozen treat that’s often combined with condensed milk, banana, and granola. So yummy! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cupua%C3%A7u

3. Sagu – A very common Brazilian dessert. It’s made with wine, tapioca balls, and cloves. I was hesitant to try it but now I can’t get enough of it. http://brazilianfoodie.com/2011/01/sagu-tapioca-pearls-in-red-wine/

4. Cajá – A really good, thick fruit juice. http://flavorsofbrazil.blogspot.com.br/2009/10/everything-you-wanted-to-know-about.html

5. Acarajé and Moqueca – These are two very common regional foods from Bahia. Both primarily contain seafood but can be made vegetarian. They are quite good and filling. Here’s more info and pictures about acarajé https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acaraj%C3%A9 and moqueca https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moqueca

6. Studying at the university library – I spend a great deal of time studying and reading at home. As much as I like the peace and quiet, I also enjoy human interaction. Therefore, I decided to pay a visit to the university library and sit side by side with my peers. Upon arriving at the library, I was told that I had to leave my purse in a locker located close to the entrance. Feeling uncomfortable with the idea of my possessions not being with me, I emptied my purse, left it in the locker, and took my things with me. A few seconds later after coming to the realization of what I had just done - completely exposing myself - I took my things, put them in my purse, and went back home to study.

7. Brazilians disliking Argentines – Granted there are exceptions to the rule, but in general Brazilians do not like Argentines. They consider them to be rude, arrogant, loud, egoistic, sloppy, untrustworthy, full of themselves, and the list goes on and on.
8. Winter – Winter is coming shortly! I have asked what winter is like in Porto Alegre and have received a myriad of responses. Some say it’s bitter cold, others say it’s mild, and I’ve heard that it rains a great deal. I’m not terribly concerned because if I survived New York City then Porto Alegre should be a piece of cake (Frank Sinatra was a wise man). However, a Canadian told me that last winter she was very cold here and never took off her parka coat. To me her words have great merit, which leave me a little uneasy….  

Até mais!

Abraços,

Ariana